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Premier Palace Hotel opened a summer ground of Japanese restaurant Sumosan.
Businessman – Weekend // of 28.07.2006

Sumosan is the third project of restaurateur Alexander Volkov, who, by the way, was born in Ukraine. The first Sumosan is in Moscow, the second one was opened in London in 2002. The predecessors have got an excellent reputation. E.g., the English Sumosan is one of ten best London restaurants. Though the influential newspaper The Guardian in due time wrote: "One can hardly be fond of Sumosan" and was indignant at 160 pound bill, which is not very much according to Kyiv measuring.

Actually, Kyiv Sumosan was opened in the ground floor of Premier Palace, the territory of which seems to be free from low and average, moderate prices. Here are four halls: main, VIP and two halls with teppan-tables, as well as the abovementioned summer ground. The interior is a quite harmonic symbiosis of European modernism and Japanese classics, though actually not Japanese, but that average European attractive image of it.

The restaurant menu absolutely complies with the interior. The Japanese cookery has long ago been inscribed in the actual gastronomic context, and dishes which became classic, like, for example, black cod or flying fish caviar, adjoin the combinations, which are inconceivable for the first sight, such as tunny-fish with avocado and stellate sturgeon caviar (168 hryvnias). Though, actually, in the final end everything turns out to be in such a harmony that there is no more question why it should be this way.

I think this is true also for the Ukrainian trace in Sumosan menu for those who decided to taste something new. Certainly, we speak about lard. It is placed in the menu several times. For the first time – in "sushi" section (33 hryvnias), in the first line… Later on we learned that lard is also a basic component of Japanese pizza (58 hrvnias). Aburayaki lard in the section "hot dishes" became the last drop: we automatically looked through the menu up to “desserts” section. It seemed that lard in the chocolate is a logical consequence of integration of purely Ukrainian products into advanced Asian cookery. But there was no lard in desserts.

However, in Sumosan the lard has one common feature with an important gastronomic component – fish. Both of them are fresh. It means that fish and seafood are not frozen, they arrive at the table immediately after catch. Ukrainian law, unlike, for example, American law, allows to do it thanks to good suppliers, which can deliver products very fast.

Sushi, sashimi and rolls are an obvious proof of the fact that this matter is considered with extreme seriousness in Sumosan. The stock of fish and seafood is more than just varied: it contains more than 50 items.

There is an extremely wide choice of tepaniaki: marble meat (810 hryvnias), lamb ribs (570 hryvnias), American beef (294 hryvnias), duck (210 hryvnias), chick (168 hryvnias), fua-gra (with onion – 240 hryvnias, with berries – 252 hryvnias), shrimps (330 hryvnias), lobster (390 hryvnias), tunny-fish (420 hryvnias), salmon (234 hryvnias), giant scallop (330 hryvnias), squid (264 hryvnias) – if ordered separately. In the tepaniaki made dish the number of ingredients increases: tepaniaki made dish with marble meat (930 hryvnias for one person, 1500 – for two), American beef made dish (790 hryvnias for one person).

In total, the restaurant menu is extremely extensive. In addition to the abovementioned sections there are also main courses, soups, cold and warm salads, collations and, certainly, desserts. The basis of this section is ice-cream. All this variety is to be accompanied with drinks. The alcohol section of menu is well-balanced, despite the size. There is a wide range of cocktails, which are to be drunk is the summer ground in such a weather, and we did it with pleasure.

Roman Kostritsa

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